TARRAGON TODAY

Our garden tarragon is the French or true culinary type (Artemesia dracunculus). It is a sturdy perennial that fits in well with flowering borders, bee attracting plants and the vegetable garden.

Photos show yesterday's harvested bundle of tarragon, and prepared for drying in a clean dishtowel. See January 24, 2010, post for more on drying herbs.

The chemical scientists identify the flavor components in tarragon as "pinene" (pine), "limonene" (citrus), and "estragole" (anise). Sounds like oenology doesn't it? In any case, tarragon is one of the most versatile of the herbs and it is easy to grow in a climate zone that occasionally reaches 30 below zero Fahrenheit. It happily returns each spring with its many gifts.

Tarragon is a classic seasoning herb for chicken in all preparations.
Three simple applications will be discussed today:

1) Roast a whole chicken with fresh tarragon branches in the cavity.

2) Poach chicken breasts in a broth of white wine and tarragon to use in chicken salads.

3) Saute (pan fry) chicken thighs with a dusting of flour and crushed dry tarragon.

If you enjoy outdoor seasonal grilling, split small chickens in half, flatten, and grill over coals or gas grill in your favorite way. Lay branches of tarragon right on the fire for a tarragon smoke that flavors the meat.

OVEN ROASTED CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON

Preheat oven to 425 F.

3# roasting chicken, remove any packets of liver, heart, etc., and discard. Rinse with cold water and pat dry. Salt the cavity and fill with folded-to-fit branches of fresh tarragon (or thyme, or lemon and mint). If no herbs at hand, slice a lemon and crush several cloves of garlic and stuff the cavity. The aroma from any herb combination is fantastic in the kitchen.

Rub with vegetable oil (or butter for the classic taste) and place, breast side down, on a roasting rack set in a roasting pan (even a cookie sheet). Roasting breast down is "self-basting" with the fats in the dark meat (back of bird) basting the breast. Breast will not be dry unless it is over baked. Saves basting! We even do holiday turkey this same way.

After ten minutes, turn heat down to 375 F and finish roasting. A 3# chicken should take just 90 minutes total.

Remove from oven, tent with foil and rest for 15 minutes, invert, and carve. There is nothing more delicious than a roast chicken--I know you can buy them at the market for very little money, but I have found that the meat isn't as good quality..... mushy. Overdone.


POACHED CHICKEN BREASTS FOR SALADS or SANDWICHES

2 whole chicken breasts--split, skinned and boned

1 quart water, flavored with 1 bay leaf
1 cup white wine or white vermouth
1 teaspoon salt
6 peppercorns or ground pepper
2 cloves fresh garlic, flattened
2 branches fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon ground tarragon (or more).

Bring broth ingredients to a boil in a sauce pan that will hold the breasts in a single layer. Simmer broth ten minutes to marry seasonings.

Slip in chicken breasts and cook at gentle simmer until breasts are poached--about 15 minutes, maximum. Test one with the sharp point of a knife to be sure it is cooked through, but not overdone and DRY. It seems like poaching techniques would keep meat moist, but poaching will not prevent "overdone" and DRY.

Remove breasts from broth and let cool to room temperature. Thinly slice across the grain at an angle and use for chicken salad or any other use you wish, including delicious chicken sandwiches. Strain broth, refrigerate or freeze for later use (soup?). See February 2010 posts for ideas.


CHICKEN THIGHS SAUTEED WITH TARRAGON

"Fried" has come to mean deep fried in popular jargon, so " fried in the pan" will be called saute to note the difference for purposes of this post.

6 chicken thighs (any dark meat pieces are fine).
If you are going to remove skin, do it before cooking--doing it after cooking loses all the flavor.

Flour dusting:

In a bag (lunch bag size good) put 1 cup flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons ground pepper, and a big handful of dried crushed-in-your-hand tarragon leaves (or 1 tablespoon commercial tarragon powder). Optional: if you want some "heat" add 1/2 teaspoon Chipotle or other chili powder. SHAKE to mix.

Rinse chicken pieces and pat dry with paper towels. Shake a few at a time in the flour dusting bag. Remove and shake off excess. Do not reuse this flour mix. It now contains bits of raw chicken. Discard bag.

Have a large skillet heated with your choice of cooking oil and/or butter combination, or non-stick spray if you desire.

Place dusted pieces in the hot skillet and "fry" or saute. Brown on one side, and turn with tongs to brown on second side. Depending on size of pieces, cooking time will vary. About 20 minutes total should do it. Test one piece by cutting into a small middle area with point of a sharp knife. Should be just past the pink stage. Remove pieces and drain on new paper towel. Keep warm and serve with your favorite salad or vegetable.

We always do about twice as much as one meal requires and have leftovers for a second meal. Gently reheat in the microwave.

All of these recipes are super EASY, and economical. Don't bother to buy commercial seasoned "coating mixes" that are full of sugar and preservatives. With the basic flour, herb, salt and pepper, you can develop your own flavors--ethnic or otherwise. We used tarragon today. But the possibilities are endless. You can do it!

Get creative with your cooking!

KGC