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We received two 5-gallon buckets brimming with local apples. I don't know what specific variety they are--maybe you will recognize them from the pictures. The fruit is bright red with firm white juicy flesh. They have a fine flavor for eating out of hand. Such an apple is ideal for the juice technique posting today.
A dear lady from Toulouse, France, married to a noted regional artist and sheep rancher who passed away in 2004, shared this juice extraction process with me some years ago. Her orchard produced a Golden Delicious variety, prolific and hardy in our cold zone. The fruit was clear yellow in color, highly aromatic, crisp, and excellent for eating raw or cooking. I remember sitting in the shade on their lawn on hot summer days and drinking a pitcher of her apple juice over ice--as clear and pale as the rarest Champagne. I have made it each fall ever since--to preserve that memory of summer again and again.
Most any local apple will do--however, if the fruit is sweet enough to enjoy raw, you will not have to add much sugar, if any. This makes the result even more attractive to those of us who watch our sugar calorie intake. RED skinned apples make a lovely pink color--a non alcohol rose.
Our apples required quite a bit of trimming---many were windfalls, and the birds and squirrels had discovered a treat. After thoroughly washing them with the garden hose, I set up a simple work station in the yard and split the apples and trimmed away any bitten or bruised spots.
Two brimming pails of whole apples produced two about 2/3 full pails of apple pieces. (See photos).
The technique we are using is basically soaking split or quartered apples, not peeled, not cored, with a solution of cream of tartar powder and boiling water. That's it. The apples are weighted down in their buckets after covering them with boiling water, and left to soak 24 hours. After that period of time, the juice is strained off, reboiled, sweetened if necessary, and processed in Mason jars. Please see posting on processing grape juice September 18, 2010.
Basic Proportions for Apple Juice
(easily doubled or tripled if you have space)
3 quarts apples, halved or quartered depending on size (don't bother to core)
5 quarts boiling water
1 tablespoon cream of tartar
Scrub apples, trim, and place in a scrupulously clean bucket, large kettle or steel basin.
Sprinkle cream of tarter over pieces. For each bucket pictured, I used 2 tablespoons cream of tartar each.
Pour boiling water over apples, agitate slightly to dissolve powder. Weigh apples down to keep them covered with solution. Use a heavy plate that will fit in the bucket and set another weight on top -- see photo -- a glass baking dish is added for a little extra weight. Cover pails with a lid or plastic cutting board to retain some of the warmth and keep it all clean.
Let stand 24 hours.
Strain the apples through a colander lined with cheesecloth or a thin wet dish towel. Catch juice in another basin or stock pot. Discard apple pieces.
Bring juice to a rolling boil and simmer at least 20 minutes to kill any bacteria or yeasts. Taste juice. If you want sweeter juice, start with one half cup of sugar and taste again before adding more. Bring to a boil again to completely dissolve sugar. If you desire more intense apple flavor, continue to boil and reduce quantity of juice 10 - 15%.
Have jars ready-- sterilized and hot. Fill and top with new lids. When sealed, wipe off any sticky on the jars and store them in a cool dark place.
Enjoy!
KGC
Well, I forgot the most important picture connected with the previous Farmers Market post. Here is the Beet Salad from
Il Fornaio in Marin County, Calif. It was made with two colors of beets---reds and golds.
Delicious.
The summer turns to autumn abruptly in the northern plains. Suddenly one night it's 38 degrees instead of 60, and you begin to think about frost harming your little back yard patch of tomatoes and string beans. To cover them or not? It's always the question.
The local farmers market extends the season --- last week there were still plenty of root vegetables, late blooming flowers (mostly yarrow), and the last of corn on the cob. I went to buy beets at our farmers market to recreate a composed salad served to me in San Francisco last month. I couldn't wait until next year. It had to be now and my little row of backyard beets failed to get larger than marbles.. I purchased two big bunches of beauties that were in my kettle within the hour, boiled, peeled, and sliced for my salad (see recipe below).
The San Francisco Farmers Market is more year-around, since California's climate is Mediterranean mild. A few pictures show some of its glory. We stayed for a week across the street from the Ferry Building Plaza, which hosts the market on Saturday mornings. It was more than pleasant to enjoy our morning coffees and pastry on the wharf with all the activity a few feet away. I bought figs and raspberries and ate them right out of the basket.
My interest in fresh home grown produce stems from a childhood spent near farms--not my own, but the farms of many relatives. Neighbors still kept dairy cows well into the 1950s. Our contemporary notion of "localism" was a fact of life then. Hundreds of items we take for granted today were special treats and highly seasonal until the advent of the jet plane. We lately lament the demise of the "family farm" and yearn for its return -- perhaps in our own neighborhood or the school yard, where vegetable gardens have sprouted next to the playground. But of course it is unrealistic to think that our world of over 6 billion souls could be fed locally--there simply would not be enough even if all had their own garden. In the developed countries, we take for granted dozens of kinds of coffee or tea, cinnamon, saffron, cardamom and myriad exotic spices, citrus, peaches, melons, fresh ocean fish, shellfish, and every kind of manufactured food product, every day of the year. Surely it is a fantasy that we use local products for more than a percentage or two of our diets. Still, it is important to know how we grow our food and how much we spend on resources to ship it around the world. One day we may have to adjust to far less variety--and who knows? It might not be as inconvenient as we think.
Meanwhile, let's do what we can to focus on local produce, and take advantage of it. It will always be the freshest. We have previously posted articles about cherries, grapes, and apples that are in over supply around home. Our farmers markets will end soon, but let's give those who offer their beautiful wares our support.
Composed Italian style salad featuring Beets
Prepare a bunch of approximately 4 - 6 fresh beets by trimming stems (greens) leaving about one inch of stem. Wash well to remove any loose soil. Cover with water in a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes, depending on size. You should be able to pierce them with a fork (like a properly boiled potato). Drain and cool enough so that you can slip off the outer skins. Set aside until ready to slice and use in your salad.
*Don't waste the beet greens--steam them in a basket over boiling water, and toss with olive oil and red wine vinegar. They are an addictive variation on chard and spinach.
Prepare a vinaigrette style dressing (see February 1, 2010, for basic recipe) with olive oil, salt, ground pepper, and substituting lemon or lime for the acidic proportion (rather than vinegar).
Toast some walnut halves in the oven (spread on a cooky sheet or pie pan, toss with salt, and roast at 325 F for about ten minutes.) As soon as you are able to smell the aroma, they are done. Remove from oven and let cool.
Prepare some salad greens--about 1 cup per person. Greens can be thinly shredded head of Romaine, or "Mesclun" or "spring mix" baby lettuces from the garden or market.
Shave some Parmesan cheese with your vegetable peeler, or used grated if preferred.
Final assembly: Slice beets (about one quarter inch thick) and toss with some dressing. Toss greens with some dressing and pile on a salad plate. Next lay on sliced beets and handful of toasted walnuts. Finish with shaved Parmesan and serve.
Option: this same salad preparation can also be made with fall pears--no need to cook the pears.
Reminder: take another look at the posting on July 5, 2010, with the Yukon Gold potato salad, and the Succotash salad using harvest beans, corn, onions, and garlic. Delicious again!
Continuing with our focus on the bounty of fall fruits right in the neighborhood, we picked grapes last weekend and canned the lovely juice. The grapes are so sweet this year that adding sugar is not necessary. It was a social event to pick them on a hot September afternoon.
Lovely jelly can also be made from the grape juice and if you are interested in jelly, please refer to your county extension service or the instruction inserts in fruit pectin packages sold in the canning supplies aisle at your market. Cookbooks such as "Joy of Cooking" also give detailed steps for canning and preserving many kinds of fruits. Most of us do not have the time or fresh produce to "put up" our winter supplies--it's far more practical to buy them already done. However, the abundance of fruits available for the picking always tempts me to do it once more.
If sweet apples become available soon, I will post making juice in a French technique taught to me by a French rancher in our area. Stay tuned.
GRAPE JUICE
First: arrive at the arbor with your clippers, 5-gallon pails, and a sturdy ladder. After filling your pails, store in a cool place (away from birds and raccoons), overnight if necessary.
Prepare your kitchen canning station. You will need a large colander or wire strainer, your biggest stock pot or kettle, something to crush grapes as they cook -- a potato masher works well-- cheese cloth or thin pieces of worn cotton cloth to line the straining colander, and another basin or large pot to catch juice as you strain the seeds and stems. Mitten style pot holders and large spoons are also necessary. Once the cooking down process starts, you won't want to be searching for gear.
Second: thoroughly wash grapes under running cold water to remove any dirt, little insects, etc., This may be done outside with the garden hose if your sink is small. It is not necessary to remove grapes from stems. Wine grape harvesters crush everything at once, remember.
Third: fill your stock pot(s) about 2/3 full with washed grapes. Cover with cold water (maybe over- cover an inch or so), and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce heat and simmer for about 30 minutes. I use a large commercial potato masher a couple of times while cooking to release more juice. When cooked, turn off heat, cover pots and let cool until juice can be safely handled. I usually cook the first day after picking, cover, and let sit overnight.
Fourth: when cooled, carefully pour juice through a colander or wire basket lined with a couple layers of cheese cloth (rinse the cheese cloth before use to remove sizing--it might leave a little taste that you don't want) and catch it in a basin. Rinse the cooking pot and return the juice to it for further boiling. Lift the stems and seeds caught in the cheese cloth and squeeze out all the extra. Discard stems and seeds and reline colander if you have more batches. I don't reuse the cheese cloth, but you may. .
Jar Preparation: I wash my "Mason" style* quart canning jars in the dishwasher and immediately set them on a tray and put them in the oven at 225 degrees F to stay hot until filling with juice. Jars must be scrupulously clean and HOT for canning process.
Prepare lids by heating in a small pan of water and keeping them hot. If you are reusing your rings, be sure they are washed and clean. Use tongs to lift out lids.
Fifth: Boil the strained juice for 10 minutes and fill jars. Before finishing the boiling, taste the juice. If you desire a more intense taste, continue to boil and reduce (excess water evaporates and you get greater flavor). If you desire sweeter juice, start with adding 1 cup of granulated sugar to the pot for each 4 quarts juice. Bring to a boil again and be sure sugar is completely dissolved. Our Concords, Betas (reds), and Briannes (whites) rarely need to be sweetened. You can always sweeten the juice later when you serve the juice.
Please refer to reliable reference material for filling and sealing jars. This step is extremely important for food safety. There is little risk in canning fruit juice, but nevertheless, shortcuts should not be taken.
Sixth: Using a wide funnel and a pint glass measuring cup, fill 3 jars at a time. With a scrupulously clean dishcloth, wipe rim of each jar (dip it in the hot water you are holding for the lids) and top with a lid. Screw on a ring and set jar aside until you hear the pop of its seal. Because I use oven hot sterilized jars, hot lids, and boiling juice, I do not additionally process. Follow your equipment and manufacturer's recommendations. Repeat process until all hot juice is used. If you have juice left over, but not enough for a full jar, put it in a glass or pitcher and refrigerate and enjoy soon!
Final step: Check lids for sealing--if a lid has flexibility in its "dome" when pressed with your finger, it is not sealed. Refrigerate and use as you would a refrigerated juice. For sealed jars, wipe jars to remove any stickiness and store in a cool place (wine cellars ideal).
*The "Mason" glass canning jar was invented and patented in 1858. Jars feature a 2-part cover: an inner flat metal lid and a screw-on ring which holds the lid in place. The canning process creates a partial vacuum as the juice cools, and seals jars until opened later. The sealing lids are used ONCE. The glass jars can be reused many times, making them an ideal container for those who like re-usables and recyclables.
Neighbors have trees loaded with fruits. They often call and offer free fruit for the picking. We go right over with our pail and step ladder. In our region apples, plums, cherries, grapes, and many berries are in the "excess production" category. We stay alert for these bounties--it is the best possible way to use "local" and not let food go to waste. It's fine to purchase fruits for jams, jellies,, juice, pies etc., but be aware that "putting them up" has to be just for fun because it is very costly to do a few jars. At several dollars a pound, that raspberry jam better be super delicious! Involve the whole family in the fruit picking project--it's a great late summer activity. They'll make connections learning how food grows, how it is harvested, and how it is preserved. Today, Cherry Pie: Fruit pies are FRUIT + SUGAR + THICKENER (if needed), baked in a crust.
That's it. Prepare your favorite crust, or check our blog posting pie crust primer for June 1, 2010 for an excellent easy alternative with pictures. Wash, stem and pit cherries. Yes, they can be pitted with a small sharp pointed knife, but the hardware store "pitter" makes this easy. Kids love to "pit". Little ones also love to shell peas. Toss 4 cups pitted cherries with 1 1/2 to 2 cups sugar (depends on the tartness of the cherries). You may have to experiment the first cherries until you see how tart they are. I like to crush a few cherries in the mix, but it is optional. If cherries are very juicy, you can mix a tablespoon of cornstarch (or flour) per cup of sugar before tossing with fruit. Personal preference---I like it juicy. Line 9" pie pan with crust, and fill with cherry mixture. Cover with second crust if desired. Cherry pies are traditionally covered with strips of dough woven to form a "lattice". Your choice. Bake in a pre-heated 400 degree F oven for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 F and bake another 40 minutes or until nicely browned and fruit is bubbling.
Enjoy! This pie won't last long.......
KGC
Our garden tarragon is the French or true culinary type (Artemesia dracunculus). It is a sturdy perennial that fits in well with flowering borders, bee attracting plants and the vegetable garden.
Photos show yesterday's harvested bundle of tarragon, and prepared for drying in a clean dishtowel. See January 24, 2010, post for more on drying herbs.
The chemical scientists identify the flavor components in tarragon as "pinene" (pine), "limonene" (citrus), and "estragole" (anise). Sounds like oenology doesn't it? In any case, tarragon is one of the most versatile of the herbs and it is easy to grow in a climate zone that occasionally reaches 30 below zero Fahrenheit. It happily returns each spring with its many gifts.
Tarragon is a classic seasoning herb for chicken in all preparations.
Three simple applications will be discussed today:
1) Roast a whole chicken with fresh tarragon branches in the cavity.
2) Poach chicken breasts in a broth of white wine and tarragon to use in chicken salads.
3) Saute (pan fry) chicken thighs with a dusting of flour and crushed dry tarragon.
If you enjoy outdoor seasonal grilling, split small chickens in half, flatten, and grill over coals or gas grill in your favorite way. Lay branches of tarragon right on the fire for a tarragon smoke that flavors the meat.
OVEN ROASTED CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON
Preheat oven to 425 F.
3# roasting chicken, remove any packets of liver, heart, etc., and discard. Rinse with cold water and pat dry. Salt the cavity and fill with folded-to-fit branches of fresh tarragon (or thyme, or lemon and mint). If no herbs at hand, slice a lemon and crush several cloves of garlic and stuff the cavity. The aroma from any herb combination is fantastic in the kitchen.
Rub with vegetable oil (or butter for the classic taste) and place, breast side down, on a roasting rack set in a roasting pan (even a cookie sheet). Roasting breast down is "self-basting" with the fats in the dark meat (back of bird) basting the breast. Breast will not be dry unless it is over baked. Saves basting! We even do holiday turkey this same way.
After ten minutes, turn heat down to 375 F and finish roasting. A 3# chicken should take just 90 minutes total.
Remove from oven, tent with foil and rest for 15 minutes, invert, and carve. There is nothing more delicious than a roast chicken--I know you can buy them at the market for very little money, but I have found that the meat isn't as good quality..... mushy. Overdone.
POACHED CHICKEN BREASTS FOR SALADS or SANDWICHES
2 whole chicken breasts--split, skinned and boned
1 quart water, flavored with 1 bay leaf
1 cup white wine or white vermouth
1 teaspoon salt
6 peppercorns or ground pepper
2 cloves fresh garlic, flattened
2 branches fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon ground tarragon (or more).
Bring broth ingredients to a boil in a sauce pan that will hold the breasts in a single layer. Simmer broth ten minutes to marry seasonings.
Slip in chicken breasts and cook at gentle simmer until breasts are poached--about 15 minutes, maximum. Test one with the sharp point of a knife to be sure it is cooked through, but not overdone and DRY. It seems like poaching techniques would keep meat moist, but poaching will not prevent "overdone" and DRY.
Remove breasts from broth and let cool to room temperature. Thinly slice across the grain at an angle and use for chicken salad or any other use you wish, including delicious chicken sandwiches. Strain broth, refrigerate or freeze for later use (soup?). See February 2010 posts for ideas.
CHICKEN THIGHS SAUTEED WITH TARRAGON
"Fried" has come to mean deep fried in popular jargon, so " fried in the pan" will be called saute to note the difference for purposes of this post.
6 chicken thighs (any dark meat pieces are fine).
If you are going to remove skin, do it before cooking--doing it after cooking loses all the flavor.
Flour dusting:
In a bag (lunch bag size good) put 1 cup flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons ground pepper, and a big handful of dried crushed-in-your-hand tarragon leaves (or 1 tablespoon commercial tarragon powder). Optional: if you want some "heat" add 1/2 teaspoon Chipotle or other chili powder. SHAKE to mix.
Rinse chicken pieces and pat dry with paper towels. Shake a few at a time in the flour dusting bag. Remove and shake off excess. Do not reuse this flour mix. It now contains bits of raw chicken. Discard bag.
Have a large skillet heated with your choice of cooking oil and/or butter combination, or non-stick spray if you desire.
Place dusted pieces in the hot skillet and "fry" or saute. Brown on one side, and turn with tongs to brown on second side. Depending on size of pieces, cooking time will vary. About 20 minutes total should do it. Test one piece by cutting into a small middle area with point of a sharp knife. Should be just past the pink stage. Remove pieces and drain on new paper towel. Keep warm and serve with your favorite salad or vegetable.
We always do about twice as much as one meal requires and have leftovers for a second meal. Gently reheat in the microwave.
All of these recipes are super EASY, and economical. Don't bother to buy commercial seasoned "coating mixes" that are full of sugar and preservatives. With the basic flour, herb, salt and pepper, you can develop your own flavors--ethnic or otherwise. We used tarragon today. But the possibilities are endless. You can do it!
Get creative with your cooking!
KGC
The region survived a tornado and hail on Father's Day, some record heat for a couple of days, and more rain than average. The perennial beds love this year's weather. The vegetable gardens are a little behind schedule. But we are ever optimistic that all will catch up with the sunny week currently forecast. Hail slightly damaged our early garden, but most of the peonies were still in the bud stage and the hail bounced off. We were lucky.
Photos include:
Gold yarrow (Achillea) contrasted with dark smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria) at dusk.
Pink Malva (Malvaceae: mallow) and baby's breath (Gypsophila) make a dainty mound anchored with day lilies (Hemerocallis).
Delphiniums (Ranunculaceae) are my favorite blues. Pacific Giants were started from seed years ago.
Patio Pots of herbs include rosemary, 2 basils, 2 parsleys, Greek oregano, and nasturtium grown for the blossoms which will go in our salads.
Two large containers with zucchini and Japanese (long variety) cucumber.
Two flat containers for early lettuce (they are just about spent). Black Simpson and Arugula.
We have good luck with patio containers for our very favorites---it is possible to protect them from sudden storms, etc., In addition to vegetables we have several containers of geraniums which were overwintered in the basement (see post February 16, 2010). They are very hardy , fast growing, and heavy blooming in this zone.
If you have a deck or patio, try a few containers. They will reward you. Plants can be started from seed, or purchased from your local nursery. It's easier to protect patio containers from cold weather--they are next to the house. We can't reliably plant in the back yard vegetable plot until Memorial Day. The patio "garden" gets a head start.
Because of the short, yet hot, summer season here, we have established our flower beds and borders with perennials and native plants. They are so forgiving in an unpredictable climate. With the exception of the patio containers, we do not put out any annuals except the geraniums--we're just getting too lazy! Annuals are an expense and very time consuming for just 3 months of summer.
We are cutting a second round of Swiss chard, and zucchinis are blossoming. Can't wait for a few on the grill.
Keep gardening!
KGC
At least once each summer I HAVE to have a cheesecake---the creamy cold dessert that no one resists. The cheesecake in this post is a combination of many experiments over the years. I love the taste of honey in it--and honey replaces granulated sugar as the main filling sweetener. I pay hommage to the great Joyce Goldstein of San Francisco's Square One restaurant for the honey idea. She was a food innovator without compare. We bonded forever when I discovered her Tartufo al Tre Scalini in her book "Back to Square One: Old World Food in a New World Kitchen." (William Morrow & Co. 1992). The tartufo is a famous Roman ice cream treat named for the fountains of the tre scalini (3 stairways) plaza. I ate one on the spot in 1966 during my first trip to Europe with two dear college friends. We enjoyed this divine taste while dipping our toes in the fountains. Unforgettable!
Cheesecakes are simple---just have the ingredients ready and at room temperature for smooth, lump free mixing, and be patient with cooling the cake in a couple of steps. This dessert must be completely chilled in the refrigerator at least 8 hours or ideally overnight before serving. If not cold, it will slowly collapse when cut.
Cheesecakes require baking in the oven in a water bath. Of course there is special equipment you can purchase to do this, but a 9" layer cake pan, at least 2" deep, or a 9" spring form pan (my preference) work perfectly. Select a roasting pan or any oven proof dish that will hold your cake pan with some extra room and fill with boiling water half way up the cake pan side. That's it. See photos for examples.
The basics of cheese cake are cream cheese + sour cream + eggs + flavoring. Flavors range from the classic lemon and vanilla to white chocolate (yes!) and ours today--a gingery crust with honey and orange flavored cream. Experiment and impress your guests.
SUMMER CHEESECAKE
Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.
The Crust: make quick work of this in the food processor if you have one, or crush crackers in a plastic bag with your rolling pin or a straight side wine bottle.
12 double graham crackers to make 2 cups crumbs
(use half graham crackers and half almonds or pecans if desired)
1/2 cup sugar
1 scant tablespoon powdered ginger
Pulse in food processor until crumbs are evenly crushed.
Generously butter your cake pan.
Dump in the crumb mix pat down smoothly.
Set aside while you mix the filling.
The Filling
Reminder: room temperature cream cheese mixes much more easily than cold.
2 pounds cream cheese
1 cup sour cream (half of a 1 pound carton)
1 cup honey--lavender honey if you have it, but any intense flavored honey is fine
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs (4 if they aren't very large)
Optional: 1 scant tablespoon cornstarch which will help control any slight seepage after baking
2 teaspoons orange flower water, or the freshly grated zest of a lemon or orange
If you have neither of the above, use 2 teaspoons liquid vanilla.
In your mixer, beat cream cheese and sour cream until smooth.
Add honey and mix in well.
Add eggs one at a time (crack them all into a small bowl first and they are easy to slide into the mixer bowl one at a time).
Be sure to scrape sides of bowl with spatula so that no lumps of cream cheese are left
Add flavorings and mix another minute.
Turn mixture into cake pan on top of crust. Smooth top if necessary.
Spring form pans can leak if not tightly locked. I wrap some aluminum foil around the base of the pan before placing in roaster to prevent this and add the tea kettle full of boiling water. See photo.
Bake at 350 for 40 minutes. Turn off oven and leave cake as is, with door closed. After one hour, open oven door, prop ajar with a wooden spoon, and let cake cool one more hour in there.
Remove all pans from the oven and set on counter. Lift out cake pan and set it on an absorbent dishtowel for a few minutes to blot up any water. Do not unmold until completely chilled. Cover cake top in its pan with plastic wrap, set it on a plate, and put in refrigerator overnight or at least 8 hours.
The spring form pan is a snap for unmolding. Run a table knife around the cake to loosen from the ring. Release the catch lock and carefully lift off the ring. Leave the cake on the flat base--it's great for support. Don't forget to lick the ring!
If you are using a standard layer pan, the unmolding is trickier. You will have to loosen the sides, cover the pan with a plate, reverse it and pray it comes out. If you don't want the crumb crust as a topping, reverse again, using a second plate.
The cake is perfect as it is---just needs some iced tea or coffee to accompany a nice big slice. If you want more color, serve with a few raspberries, strawberries, or a combination of colored fruit slices and a spring of fresh mint from your garden.
ENJOY!
KGC
