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A trip to Japan in November 2008 was a consciousness raising journey. We joined a group from the Santa Barbara Museum of Art, which has an excellent travel program, and enjoyed 2 weeks in a new culture of gorgeous gardens and unforgettable food experiences. Of course there was lots of ART, but that's for another day. If you are interested in more photos of Japan please go to http://picasaweb.google.com/bothgreens/
A primary difference between our western European style stocks and Japanese stock is the length of time needed to make one. Stocks using beef, pork, lamb, chicken, fish and shellfish are widely used in Asia, and require the same longer cooking as western traditional stocks. Japanese "dashi" is something new for me because it is so quick. We use it frequently in our menus to support various noodles or dumplings (raviolis) mixed with a few vegetables for fast meals. As always, salt and spicy seasonings may be added or not. It's fantastic!
For a variety of use options please check out the New York Times Web site, October 15, 2008, and read "The Secret's Out as Japanese Stock Gains Fans," by Harris Salat. You'll run right to your supermarket for ingredients. Incidentally, my local supermarket carries packages of dried kelp (spelled konbu or kombu) so it's out there. The bonito flakes not available here (yet) so I buy them when traveling or online. A package keeps a year or so unopened. Strict vegetarians won't use bonito anyway. Instant (powdered) dashi exists, but it is so EASY to make and so much better, don't bother with it.
Dashi is the foundation for miso soup, which commonly includes tofu, miso pastes and scallions.
There are a thousand combinations. I am a noodle lover, so cooked noodles of any sort go in my dashi with a few scallions, mushrooms, and minced fresh parsley. Add pieces of leftover meat, chicken or fish to round out a meal. In a future post, we will make some dumplings and ravioli with supermarket purchased wrappers to add as well. The Japanese believe that less is more, as you can see in the photos--they do not put "everything" into the soup. At least not all at once!
Let me know your results. We'll share.
BASIC DASHI or Japanese sea vegetable (kelp) stock
2 ounces kombu (see photo of package)
2 quarts cold water
Place dried kelp in bottom of a stock pot
Add 2 quarts cold water
Let soak for a few minutes until kelp is soft
Simmer gently for about 20 minutes until the water is nice and green. Do not boil.
Lift out kelp and add 2 ounces of bonito flakes (one package as pictured).
Now bring to a full boil, stirring flakes to separate. After one minute at the boil, cover and remove from heat. Let stand up to 10 minutes off heat (no more). Strain through a folded paper towel or paper coffee filter. Save solids.
You may use the just strained bonito solids and the kelp you set aside for a second batch.
This time, cover the saved solids with 2 quarts cold water, gently simmer for up to 1 hour, and strain again. If a more intense flavor is desired, reduce this second cooking by half (after straining boil it down). Use within 2 days or freeze in portions for future use.
Vegetarian Dashi
Use kelp and cold water as above. Bring to a boil, cover and remove from heat immediately. Let stand covered 12 hours or overnight. Remove kelp and you have your stock ready to use.
SAVE the kelp from either technique. It can be sliced up into bite sized pieces, seasoned with soy sauce, rice wine, or sesame oil (experiment here) and eaten with leftovers on rice.
Experiment....
Photo notes: Packages of ingredients, including "nori" which is used to wrap sushi
Temple, fall colors, and lunch tray taken at Tenryu-ji Buddhist ashram in Kyoto where a strictly vegetarian menu is served.
Noodles in Japanese broth as one of many courses at a Kaiseki dinner at Benesse House museum/hotel on Naoshima Island.
Noodle slurper and bowl of udon noodle soup taken at an ancient courtyard restaurant near Takamatsu. Lunch included lessons in slurping. Udon noodles served hot, and soba noodles served cold. Shikoku Island grows more wheat than rice (drier climate), hence its fame with the udon (wheat) noodle. Soba is a buckwheat noodle.
KGC
Welcome back to the High Plains Kitchen--it is 45 degrees and melting today. Good news! Geraniums are reaching for the sun in a basement window. They'll soon be transplanted to the patio.
This post includes a brief discussion of equipment options for making stocks (broths) at home. Almost any kettle will do for stock. Thickness of the pot isn't as critical as it is for making polenta and risotto, for example. Shelf space is always an issue and cookware that nests or stacks will take up less room.
See Equipment photo: Upper level on left is a Cuisinart 18/10 stainless steel 8 quart pot that is part of a set of cookware. It is pictured on February 10 post, holding the chicken parts and vegetables. Great size for most recipes.
Upper level right are 3 Wearever (US made) nesting sauce pans (4 1/2 quart, 5 1/2 quart, and 7 quart) that are indestructible anodized aluminum. We use them constantly for for boiling pasta and everything else. They are large and can be used for making stock if shelf space is tight.
Lower left is a copper stock pot from Dehillerin in Paris (France) that is now a decorative item because the tin lining is worn off. New copper cookware of this caliber is now lined with nickel or stainless steel. The pot could be re-tinned, but we have moved on.
Lower center is another Dehillerin stock pot of very heavy aluminum (3 mm) that is my favorite because it is deep and just covers the gas burner. About 16 quarts.
Lower right is an Eagleware (US mfg) heavy aluminum pot (14 quarts) that we use for preparing chokecherries, apples, and grapes for juice making in the fall. The width allows good visibility and wide surface for things to float to the top and be skimmed off (little leaves, seeds, etc.)
Your choice of stock pots depends on the frequency of use and quantity of stock you want to prepare. They all work!
Vegetarian stock making follows the same basic techniques as others. For the best advice on all things vegetarian, "The Greens Cook Book" (1987) by Deborah Madison, with Edward Espe Brown, is without peer. Greens is a noted San Francisco vegetarian restaurant with a stunning view of the waterfront. Mr. Brown is well known for his recipe collections from the Zen Mountain Center at Tassajara, California. The "Tassajara Recipe Book" (1985) and the "Tassajara Bread Book" (1970) are well used editions in my kitchen. I recall many happy visits to his Zen bakery in San Francisco.
Vegetable stocks should be made from fresh (raw) seasonal material--and it you are unsure about how a vegetable addition will taste, cook the vegetable separately first and then try it with your favorite combination. Obviously in summer, more greens are used, and in winter, more root vegetables.
Reference the chicken stock on February 10 (without the chicken, of course):
1 medium onion (yellow or white), rough chopped into 1" pieces
3 large carrots, peeled and cut into pieces
3 stalks dark green celery, cut into pieces
2-3 leeks and their greens, split lengthwise thoroughly washed first, then cut up
3 bay leaves
sprig of thyme or oregano
bunch of well washed parsley
1 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon whole peppercorns (any color)
Cover all with cold water. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to gentle simmer for at least 1 hour or longer. When cool enough to strain, do so before storing or freezing. If you plan to use the stock right away, refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze in containers that relate to the size you want to use later (pint containers, etc.)
Variations:
Garlic: Add several peeled and smashed cloves of garlic to the stock pot. Go as far as you want with garlic!
Brown stock: Roast the root vegetables first in a hot (450+ degree oven) in a roasting pan until well browned or "carmelized". Scrape all into the stock pot, add the greens and aromatics and cook as above. Strain. This is good in the winter.
Mushroom Stock: Add 4 ounces fresh mushrooms (any kind), well cleaned, directly to the other ingredients. OR reconstitute 1-2 ounces dried mushrooms (Porcini preferred for their heavenly woods flavors, but any mixture is fine). To reconstitute, use a 2-cup Pyrex type glass measuring cup and cover the dried mushrooms with boiling water. Set a small saucer or bowl on top to keep the mushroom submerged. Let stand 20 minutes or until mushrooms are soft. SAVE the soaking water. After picking out the mushrooms for the stock and adding them to your mix, strain the soaking water through a paper coffee filter or a piece of paper towel folded in quarters and resting in a small strainer. Add this liquid to the stock, or freeze for later use. Mushroom stock adds depth of flavor to many dishes. Don't waste a drop.
Red stock: For some Southwest dishes, tortilla soup, for example, red tinted stock is beautiful. Add tomatoes or juice or puree of tomato to accomplish this. You can cook quartered whole tomatoes with the rest of the stock ingredients, but it will take many tomatoes and they must be strained or seeded before final use in a soup, etc. Add it tablespoon at a time when preparing your final dish.
Next time: Asian stocks and dashi. Don't overlook these marvels.
Happy cooking!
KGC
As promised, today we feature soups made with chicken or vegetarian stocks. Please refer to February 10 for stock preparation basics if you missed it.
Almost any vegetable can be pureed and used in a soup. Vegetable + liquid + seasonings will create a delicious almost zero fat result by itself. If desired, the soup may be enriched with butter, cream, various ethnic seasonings and garnishes. It just depends on your mood and, perhaps, your fellow diners. At our house we often provide the basic soup and offer the other embellishments as a choice at service time. The butter or cream add unbeatable taste, but sometimes extra calories are unwanted.
Today's feature is a "Cream of Carrot" soup. Using basic cooking techniques for vegetables chosen, we will embellish two ways--one with the traditional cream addition, and one with an ingenious concoction developed by the late culinary genius, Julia Child (1912 - 2004) , and mentioned in her articles in the mid-nineties. It is a non fat substitute for the "cream" in creamed soups. She offered this idea long after her initial books on French techniques were published--recognizing that consideration of calories was an issue that had come of age for her audience.
Pureed Carrot Soup
2 pounds raw carrots (about 8 large carrots), peeled and chopped into chunks (see photo)
2 quarts chicken or vegetarian stock (add water if you are short)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
Simmer the carrot chunks in the liquid until done (soft enough to blend or puree).
Puree with your hand blender, or in a food processor, or in a cocktail blender in batches.
Taste for seasoning.
If winter commercial carrots seem a little low on flavor, add a few tablespoons of fruit juice (apple or orange work well).
Before service, stir in 2 or 3 pats of butter or 1/2 cup heavy cream. Reheat if necessary. Serve in warmed soup bowls. Offer crusty bread and a green salad. Or just drink some out of a big mug.
Optional additions might include any or all of the following:
1 teaspoon ground cumin (for a more middle eastern taste)
1/2 teaspoon ground chipotle or other smoky chili powder (Southwestern taste)
1 teaspoon cinnamon or cardamom (another middle eastern choice)
Enjoy experimenting! Serve in warmed soup bowls with a garnish of freshly ground black pepper for contrast, a dusting of parsley, etc.
Now for the homage to Julia Child "cream" option:
1 large onion (about 3 1/2 inches in diameter) diced, covered with plastic or glass lid, and cooked to soft stage in microwave for about 3 minutes depending on your equipment (this is my favorite technique for cooking onions that requires no cooking butter or oil--see photo).
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup cooked rice--any kind. The original technique used raw rice cooked in the stock--I always have leftover rice on hand, so it saves time to use it.
Combine stock, onions, and rice in a blender and whirl until creamy smooth. Keep a heavy hand on the blender lid so this mixture doesn't spill over! Or do in batches. My adored hand blender won't work for this.
You have produced about 3 cups of this amazing "cream". Add it to your soups in place of real cream until you get the balance you like. For the above recipe, 3 cups will be too much. Add one cup at a time until you are satisfied with it. Taste for seasoning. It will be low salt--which some will appreciate. I add salt to give some depth to the vegetable flavors.
Pureed soups can be made from all the root vegetables, as well as spinach, chard, watercress, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, tomatoes, potatoes, various squash, etc. Create your own favorite combination!
P.S. One photo shows vegetables in glass dishes (antique glass bread pans that belonged to my grandmother) that will go in the microwave. We do asparagus this way all the time when our garden asparagus is in season. It works best for short cooking--but can be used for any vegetable if you need an extra cooking vessel. Cover with water, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Adjust time according to your microwave. Carrots would take too long for me to wait, but it can be done. Be sure you don't let the water evaporate.
KGC
It's a great time of year to practice stock basics. Creating your own stock is easy, economical, and gives you complete control over ingredients and seasonings. We will start with chicken stock because it is the most commonly used. The basic technique is foolproof. Future blogs will cover vegetarian and beef stocks.
If you have a local butcher shop, you can purchase necks, backs, and wings for stock making and skip "doing it yourself". But TRY this at least once--it's good for self esteem and fun to show off an impressive new skill to your partners and dinner guests. You will be able to do prep the chicken in 10 minutes or less with a little practice.
This technique also works for duck stock (divine) and turkey stock.
Equipment needed: stock pot or large sauce pan, sharp knife, slotted spoon for stirring and skimming, and a strainer for the end product.
CHICKEN STOCK TECHNIQUES
Buy a whole 4 pound + chicken (our Costco sells the ideal birds in a packet of two for about $9 depending on total weight.) One substantial fryer/roaster will yield 6-8 quarts of tasty stock for your favorite soups and sauces, plus two fantastic breasts for a second meal preparation, and two leg/thigh segments for a third meal. These economical benefits are not to be overlooked in a recession!
Thaw bird if it is frozen and remove neck, liver, heart, and gizzard from inside the cavity. Add the neck to the stock and discard the rest. (I don't use livers at all--they cloud the stock and may contain undesirable elements as a result of their biochemical body processing functions.) Rinse the carcass under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
Place bird on a clean plastic (synthetic) cutting board, breast side up. (see photo). Safety tip: Do not cut any raw poultry, meat, or fish on wooden boards or wood counter tops. Wood is porous and impossible to sanitize and runs risk of holding bacteria (always present) that will contaminate other foods and potentially cause illness. Invest in a couple of synthetic, dishwasher safe cutting boards to always have a clean one ready. If you don't have a dishwasher, wash all cutting boards, knives, and counter tops in HOT soapy water immediately after use.
Separate the parts. Now just dive in! There is no wrong way to do this--but a few tips and pictures help out.
Make a shallow cut along the breast bone. Starting on one side tease the meat away from the rib cage with the tip of the knife, grasp it with your free hand, lift it away slightly and let gravity assist you. Continue cutting the breast away from the rib cage until it falls free. Repeat on the other side (see photo). Set breasts aside, leaving skin on, for later use. Cover with plastic wrap, refrigerate immediately for use within 1-2 days OR wrap well and freeze. Remove skin at time of cooking (see photo for skin removal tip with a bit of paper towel).
Next, lift the carcass by one leg (see photo) and feel the hip joint with your fingers. The weight of the chicken body makes the joint easy to find. Cut through the outside muscle and using your knife, separate at the hip joint, cutting any skin as necessary. Repeat with the other leg. Set thigh/legs, skin on (to preserve moisture) aside for later use. Refrigerate immediately for use within 1-2 days OR wrap well and freeze. Remove skin (if desired) just prior to cooking, as above.
Now you have stock parts! Break the carcass down a little, cut off wings, and split the body cavity front to back (either flatten with the heel of your hand and pull apart or use a knife, to expose more cooking surface. Cut off the "Pope's Nose" (that little triangle tail piece) and discard because it is full of oily stuff birds use to grease their feathers.
Place the stock parts in the stock pot. Rinse parts again with cold water if you think they need it. (See photo of stock pot ingredients).
A combination of aromatic vegetables (Fr. Mirepoix) are basic to stock making. Use raw carrots, celery, onions, leeks, which may or may not be "perfect"--remember that thrifty French housewives never waste anything. Stock is boiled, so goodness is extracted and germs killed. French cooks also tie up a little cheese cloth bag of herbs (Fr. Bouquet Garni) to further enhance flavors. Simply add everything you want directly into the pot and STRAIN at the end of cooking. Who has time for tying up herbs in little bags?
Following the chicken, add:
3 large carrots, rough chopped (2 inch long pieces OK)
3 stalks celery (darker green the better) rough chopped
1 large onion, quartered
Optional substitute: 3 large leeks, cleaned, trimmed and sliced
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon thyme, or 3 fresh or dry sprigs
Sprig of dry sage (careful---it's intense)
1 bunch parsley (grocery store size--dry parsley adds nothing)
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 teaspoons salt (necessary to extract flavor from the bones)
Cover all with cold water exceeding top of ingredients by at least one inch. You can always reduce stock later. Bring pot to a boil and skim off any cloudy particles floating on top. Reduce heat and gently simmer, partially covered for 90 minutes--or more--you can't overcook this. It's done when meat falls off the bones. Remove from heat and let stand until cool enough to strain.
Strain all through any kitchen strainer or colander to remove all solid ingredients. Discard them. Catch liquid in another basin or kettle. Chill and remove fat which will congeal on the surface. I chill stocks (covered) in my garage in winter but it can be done in the refrigerator as well. If you need to use stock immediately, let stand a few minutes after straining and skim fat with a large spoon. This isn't as effective as chilling at getting it all, but it works.
Congratulations! You have several quarts of beautiful liquid that you made yourself and can use any way you wish. Divide stock into containers and freeze what you don't need right now. Stock keeps refrigerated up to a week, but if you keep it that long, bring to a boil before use. Frozen stock kept in a deep freeze will keep for months--if you don't use it up too fast! Please label and date containers to help remember what it is.
Next time: Using stock for many dishes.
KGC
If you have leftover poached salmon or trout, here is an easy way to use the last pieces. We did this on Super Bowl Sunday for one of our game day treats. The mixture can be spread on any unseasoned cracker, or day-old toasted bread with crusts cut off. Highly seasoned supports (crackers or bread) detract from the delicate fish flavors. Save those crackers for something else.Poached Salmon Toasts 4-6 ounces leftover poached (or grilled) salmon or trout
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice -- about 1/4 of a whole lemon, squeezed
1 teaspoon Herbes de Provence
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground pepper
Optional: Pinch of chili Caribe (the chili flakes used for topping in Italian restaurants)
Mix ingredients with a fork, flaking fish into small bits. This may be pulsed 2 or 3 times in a food processor if you are doing a larger amount. Don't over work! We are not making baby food.
When well mixed, spread on crackers or toast points made from day old bread, crusts trimmed, and lightly toasted. Garnish plate with additional slice of lemon and parsley sprig.
Mixture may also be served as a salad, on a lettuce leaf (Bibb, spring mix, or small iceberg leaves) with crackers or toast on the side for a light luncheon dish.
Congratulations to the New Orleans Saints!
KGC
Still winter in the fly over zone.
Let's enjoy some hot soup on Big Game Sunday.
Prepare a hearty potato and onion/leek soup base with meaty additions, and expand it to a simple corn chowder. When entertaining in the 21st century, we want to consider the vegetarian, the non-drinker, and the calorie counter. Our preparation can cover all these with certain additions or deletions. In addition to the potato/onion/leek/corn chowder recipes, a gazpacho (cold variation) will be made and served in a tall glass. Serve hot soup in mugs for simple service that guests can enjoy away from the table.
Basic Potato Onion or Leek Soup
This can be prepared ahead of time and re-heated for service.
2 quarts chicken stock (or vegetable stock if preferred)
2 pounds russet (baking) potatoes, peeled, and quartered
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon salt (or more if stock isn't salted)
Simmer ingredients until potatoes are soft. Smaller pieces cook faster.
While potatoes are cooking:
Fry 4 slices bacon until crisp, remove from pan, and drain on paper towel
(For vegetarian, do bacon in the microwave and saute onion and celery in veg. oil)
Add 1 large white or yellow onion or 2 leeks, chopped
Add 2 stalks celery, chopped
Saute the onion or leek and celery in the bacon drippings (or oil) in the skillet until soft but not browned (remember this is a white soup). Cover the pan to speed the process. When cooked, add to the stock and potatoes and simmer 15 minutes. Reserve bacon for chowder garnish later.
When all is cooked, remove from heat, remove bay leaves, and puree using hand blender or food processor. If you are going to do another soup, put half the puree in a second sauce pan and set aside.
The soup thus far may be served as is, or you may add 1 cup half and half or cream and gently heat. Serve this is big mugs with a slice or two of your favorite cooked and sliced sausage floated on top. The photo shows a Louisiana-style "hot link" sliced at an angle and served with the soup.
Easy Corn Chowder
4 cups potato/leek soup base
1 cup corn kernels (frozen and thawed, or canned well rinsed and drained)
1/4 bunch fresh parsley, stems removed and tops minced
Optional: 1/2 tsp. powdered thyme OR 1/2 tsp. powdered or rubbed tarragon leaves
Gently heat corn and herbs and add 1 cup half and half. Do not boil. Taste test for salt and pepper. If you or your guests like more heat (spicier) offer a pinch of powdered chipotle or other smoky chili powder in the bottom of the mug before adding soup. Serve in mugs with crumbled bacon on top.
Michael's Gazpacho
I created this drinkable gazpacho for a summer (!) reception for a special friend. We couldn't keep up with the demand. The party went through several pitchers of it.
Up to 4 cups can be made in a standard blender. For more, make it in batches or use a food processor. All ingredients are raw, so it is best to make it day of service and refrigerate.
Some guests will enjoy a shot of vodka in the glass.
4-6 fresh Roma style tomatoes (skinned and seeded) if available. Canned tomatoes are fine. Use all the jucie and extend with good quality canned tomato juice if needed.
1 large cucumber, peeled, split, seeds removed (use a melon baller to neatly strip out the seeds) and chop before adding to blender.
2 very fresh cloves garlic, peeled and split (remove green sprout if it is present)
Big pinch dry oregano leaves, rubbed, or 1/2 tsp. powdered.
1/8 tsp. chipotle chili powder per 4-cup batch for extra spice
Optional but delicious: 1/4 tsp. beef stock paste (commercial) added to blender with other ingredients. Develops flavor.
Process in blender, holding onto the blender lid!
Serve chilled for best flavor. Add a teaspoon of olive oil for a smooth finish and pour into tall glass. Garnish with lemon slice and sprigs of cilantro or parsley.
Enjoy the weekend....
KGC
If you haven't tried poaching fish, don't hesitate another day! Remember, fish spend their lives in water, and cooking them in seasoned hot water is environmentally compatible, clean (no unwanted odors), fast, and almost calorie free. If you have freezer space, strain the cooking liquid into a freezer container (plastic tub with tight lid) and re-use indefinitely.
When poaching fish, you have excellent control of the heat. Thin pieces cook in a minute or two, and thicker ones up to 15-20 minutes. Salmon is ideal for first timers--it is very forgiving and not likely to be overcooked. Whole trout work beautifully, too.
Recently, poaching fish in olive oil has been promoted. It is a delicious technique, especially using halibut (as well as salmon). However, the main disadvantage is cost of the olive oil (it takes up to a full quart or more depending on the amount of fish). Straining and reusing the oil is possible, but it does not keep more than 2 weeks in the refrigerator, and cannot be successfully frozen.
Note: Today we will substitute fresh spinach for sorrel because the garden sorrel isn't up yet. Sorrel has about a 2-month season (late April - June) in the high plains--then the heat of summer causes it to bolt. Spinach or Swiss chard are very available substitutes.
To make a fish poaching stock or fumet (French for aroma), use a very simple combination of water, white wine, salt, and aromatic vegetables. Each time you poach a fish, some of the fish flavor will remain in the stock. When making a fresh poaching stock, I buy a whole fish, filet off the portions to be used immediately, and cook the fish frame (bones), head, skin and skin to intensify the stock. This is optional but it adds depth of flavor.
Basic Fish Stock
2 quarts water (or enough to cover all ingredients)
1 large salmon frame, bones and trimmings--about 2 pounds (optional)
2 cups dry white wine
1 tablespoon kosher (unflavored) salt
1 tablespoon black pepper corns
3 bay leaves
2 large stalks dark green celery, rough chopped
half a bunch of fresh parsley
1/2 medium onion, chopped (optional--a delicate taste is desired)
Place all ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Skim off any cloudy solids with a slotted spoon, and reduce heat to gentle simmer for 40 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through a fine sieve. At this point, the liquid should taste about as salty as seawater. Fish poached in unsalted or too little salted water will be very tasteless and bland. Don't worry about the salt--most of it stays behind in the liquid. Poaching liquid may be used immediately, or cooled and stored in the refrigerator up to two days. Longer storage requires freezing.
About 30 minutes prior to service, place the salmon (filets or steaks, with skin or not) in one layer in a lightly oiled roasting pan, close to the length of the fish pieces as you have.
Bring the strained poaching liquid to a boil in a separate sauce pan, and carefully pour over the fish pieces. If the fish pieces are large, or very cold, set the pan over a stove burner on LOW. Water should not be moving--maybe a bubble now and then, but no more. Cover with aluminum foil and poach 15 minutes. Test by separating a piece with two forks--should be just opaque in the middle, but not dry. Poach longer if necessary. Yes, fish can dry out in the liquid if overdone. Remove (using a couple of large spatulas) from cooking water onto a warm platter lined with paper towels. Cover with the foil and keep warm until ready to plate.
Sorrel or Spinach Sauce
While salmon is poaching melt 1/2 stick butter (per two servings) in a heavy saucepan.
Add 3-4 finely minced shallots to the butter and cook until soft (about 5-8 minutes)
Add 1/2 cup white vermouth or dry white wine. Bring to a boil and reduce for 1-2 minutes.
Add 1 Tablespoon strained fish poaching liquid (optional). Remember: this is VERY salty. A little goes a long way, but it adds great flavor.
Add several large handfuls fresh stemmed sorrel or fresh spinach. Cover and wilt the greens. Add more if desired. If leaves are very large, chop coarsely. Note: if you must used frozen spinach, heat it thoroughly beforehand and and squeeze it dry before adding to butter and shallots. Start with 2 boxes frozen (it seems to disappear).
Mix gently with a fork and keep warm until salmon is finished.
Assembly for Service
Plate for service at the last minute--use well warmed plates.
First, remove salmon skin if filets have skin. Turn pieces over with skin up, and peel off.
Second, divide the spinach or sorrel sauce between the service plates and spoon on with a ladle or cooking spoon.
Third, center an appropriate sized piece of fish on top of the sauce.
Fourth, garnish with a wedge of lemon, and a dusting of ground black pepper or finely minced parsley if desired.
Fifth, enjoy your accolades!
Serve with tiny peeled boiled potatoes if you want a starch on the plate. They are delicious coated with some of the butter and shallot sauce.
Remember to strain the used stock into a freezer container and freeze indefinitely. Next time you want to use it, thaw, add at least another cup of white wine and possible salt (taste it). Repeat straining process and adding wine with each use. If frozen, poaching liquid lasts for months.
Next time: SOUPER BOWL CHOWDERS
KGC
At least 6 inches of powder fell last night. We'll post and then get on our skis. Can't pass up this perfect snow (25 degrees F.)
The grape arbor looks attractive with snow and before long it will be laden with huge leaves and delicious grapes. Here's what it looks like February 1, 2010.
Today's recipe is an easy colorful salad with a classic vinaigrette (vinegar + oil + salt + pepper). All ingredients are available year around. The salad offers some freshness in the winter season.
I haven't purchased a commercial salad dressing for over 30 years. They are just not to my taste and contain too many unwanted ingredients. They are also costly. Make your own! It is simple to do, and you always know what's in it. Experiment with different herbal seasonings. Combine ingredients in a glass pint jar and store them in the same jar. Saves cleanup!
Basic Vinaigrette (this may be doubled)
1/2 cup best olive oil you can afford
2 tablespoons white vinegar (plain, rice, or wine vinegar all OK)
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground mustard powder (Coleman's, for example)
Option: instead of mustard powder, use a few grains of Wasabi powder for a "secret ingredient" taste. It is quite hot, so start out with about 1/16th of a teaspoon and add from there.
2nd Option: Use FRESH lemon juice instead of white vinegar. A completely different taste.
Shake ingredients thoroughly. To develop more flavor, let dressing stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before tossing salad. Refrigerate leftover dressing. If it solidifies before next use, let stand on the counter for a few minutes and it will return to the liquid state.
For Shallot Dressing (See photo 24 January--home grown shallots in jar)
Peel 3 or 4 medium shallots, and thinly slice across the grain.
Depending on size of shallots you should have about 1 generous tablespoon. Use more if you like.
Add the shallot slices to the basic dressing, shake, and let stand a few minutes before service.
Basic Winter Tossed Salad (this amount serves 2 at my house)
1 cup shredded romaine lettuce
1 cup fresh spinach leaves
1/2 cup sliced or chopped FRESH cauliflower
1 Fuji apple, washed, cored, halved, and thinly sliced
salt and ground pepper (any color) to taste
Add dressing just to coat (too much drowns the greens--no dressing should pool in the salad bowl or on the plate) and gently toss with two soup-size spoons. Divide between plates and serve. Please toss your salads before service--pouring on dressing after plating just won't do.
Vegetable options:
Any lettuces you prefer and are able to obtain in winter
Sliced or chopped broccoli
Sliced tomatoes (we use sliced apple or sliced red bell pepper for color when tomatoes are out of season)
Sliced bell peppers
Sliced fresh mushrooms
Shredded or thinly sliced carrots
1/2 cup completely thawed frozen peas
leftover cooked vegetables such as asparagus or green beans
Limit to 3 or 4 ingredients --too many and you might end up with a mushy result. Choose ingredients to match your menu. The most elegant salads are the simplest: Perfect Bibb lettuce leaves and the shallot dressing served with a baguette and a little soft cheese can't be topped.
Note: I have excellent luck ordering from http://www.thespicehouse.com/
and http://www.penzeys.com/ for all spices and herbs that I cannot grow myself. Check them out online.
Next time: Let's poach some salmon!
KGC
