Welcome back to the High Plains Kitchen--it is 45 degrees and melting today. Good news! Geraniums are reaching for the sun in a basement window. They'll soon be transplanted to the patio.
This post includes a brief discussion of equipment options for making stocks (broths) at home. Almost any kettle will do for stock. Thickness of the pot isn't as critical as it is for making polenta and risotto, for example. Shelf space is always an issue and cookware that nests or stacks will take up less room.
See Equipment photo: Upper level on left is a Cuisinart 18/10 stainless steel 8 quart pot that is part of a set of cookware. It is pictured on February 10 post, holding the chicken parts and vegetables. Great size for most recipes.
Upper level right are 3 Wearever (US made) nesting sauce pans (4 1/2 quart, 5 1/2 quart, and 7 quart) that are indestructible anodized aluminum. We use them constantly for for boiling pasta and everything else. They are large and can be used for making stock if shelf space is tight.
Lower left is a copper stock pot from Dehillerin in Paris (France) that is now a decorative item because the tin lining is worn off. New copper cookware of this caliber is now lined with nickel or stainless steel. The pot could be re-tinned, but we have moved on.
Lower center is another Dehillerin stock pot of very heavy aluminum (3 mm) that is my favorite because it is deep and just covers the gas burner. About 16 quarts.
Lower right is an Eagleware (US mfg) heavy aluminum pot (14 quarts) that we use for preparing chokecherries, apples, and grapes for juice making in the fall. The width allows good visibility and wide surface for things to float to the top and be skimmed off (little leaves, seeds, etc.)
Your choice of stock pots depends on the frequency of use and quantity of stock you want to prepare. They all work!
Vegetarian stock making follows the same basic techniques as others. For the best advice on all things vegetarian, "The Greens Cook Book" (1987) by Deborah Madison, with Edward Espe Brown, is without peer. Greens is a noted San Francisco vegetarian restaurant with a stunning view of the waterfront. Mr. Brown is well known for his recipe collections from the Zen Mountain Center at Tassajara, California. The "Tassajara Recipe Book" (1985) and the "Tassajara Bread Book" (1970) are well used editions in my kitchen. I recall many happy visits to his Zen bakery in San Francisco.
Vegetable stocks should be made from fresh (raw) seasonal material--and it you are unsure about how a vegetable addition will taste, cook the vegetable separately first and then try it with your favorite combination. Obviously in summer, more greens are used, and in winter, more root vegetables.
Reference the chicken stock on February 10 (without the chicken, of course):
1 medium onion (yellow or white), rough chopped into 1" pieces
3 large carrots, peeled and cut into pieces
3 stalks dark green celery, cut into pieces
2-3 leeks and their greens, split lengthwise thoroughly washed first, then cut up
3 bay leaves
sprig of thyme or oregano
bunch of well washed parsley
1 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon whole peppercorns (any color)
Cover all with cold water. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to gentle simmer for at least 1 hour or longer. When cool enough to strain, do so before storing or freezing. If you plan to use the stock right away, refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze in containers that relate to the size you want to use later (pint containers, etc.)
Variations:
Garlic: Add several peeled and smashed cloves of garlic to the stock pot. Go as far as you want with garlic!
Brown stock: Roast the root vegetables first in a hot (450+ degree oven) in a roasting pan until well browned or "carmelized". Scrape all into the stock pot, add the greens and aromatics and cook as above. Strain. This is good in the winter.
Mushroom Stock: Add 4 ounces fresh mushrooms (any kind), well cleaned, directly to the other ingredients. OR reconstitute 1-2 ounces dried mushrooms (Porcini preferred for their heavenly woods flavors, but any mixture is fine). To reconstitute, use a 2-cup Pyrex type glass measuring cup and cover the dried mushrooms with boiling water. Set a small saucer or bowl on top to keep the mushroom submerged. Let stand 20 minutes or until mushrooms are soft. SAVE the soaking water. After picking out the mushrooms for the stock and adding them to your mix, strain the soaking water through a paper coffee filter or a piece of paper towel folded in quarters and resting in a small strainer. Add this liquid to the stock, or freeze for later use. Mushroom stock adds depth of flavor to many dishes. Don't waste a drop.
Red stock: For some Southwest dishes, tortilla soup, for example, red tinted stock is beautiful. Add tomatoes or juice or puree of tomato to accomplish this. You can cook quartered whole tomatoes with the rest of the stock ingredients, but it will take many tomatoes and they must be strained or seeded before final use in a soup, etc. Add it tablespoon at a time when preparing your final dish.
Next time: Asian stocks and dashi. Don't overlook these marvels.
Happy cooking!
KGC
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