If you haven't tried poaching fish, don't hesitate another day! Remember, fish spend their lives in water, and cooking them in seasoned hot water is environmentally compatible, clean (no unwanted odors), fast, and almost calorie free. If you have freezer space, strain the cooking liquid into a freezer container (plastic tub with tight lid) and re-use indefinitely.
When poaching fish, you have excellent control of the heat. Thin pieces cook in a minute or two, and thicker ones up to 15-20 minutes. Salmon is ideal for first timers--it is very forgiving and not likely to be overcooked. Whole trout work beautifully, too.
Recently, poaching fish in olive oil has been promoted. It is a delicious technique, especially using halibut (as well as salmon). However, the main disadvantage is cost of the olive oil (it takes up to a full quart or more depending on the amount of fish). Straining and reusing the oil is possible, but it does not keep more than 2 weeks in the refrigerator, and cannot be successfully frozen.
Note: Today we will substitute fresh spinach for sorrel because the garden sorrel isn't up yet. Sorrel has about a 2-month season (late April - June) in the high plains--then the heat of summer causes it to bolt. Spinach or Swiss chard are very available substitutes.
To make a fish poaching stock or fumet (French for aroma), use a very simple combination of water, white wine, salt, and aromatic vegetables. Each time you poach a fish, some of the fish flavor will remain in the stock. When making a fresh poaching stock, I buy a whole fish, filet off the portions to be used immediately, and cook the fish frame (bones), head, skin and skin to intensify the stock. This is optional but it adds depth of flavor.
Basic Fish Stock
2 quarts water (or enough to cover all ingredients)
1 large salmon frame, bones and trimmings--about 2 pounds (optional)
2 cups dry white wine
1 tablespoon kosher (unflavored) salt
1 tablespoon black pepper corns
3 bay leaves
2 large stalks dark green celery, rough chopped
half a bunch of fresh parsley
1/2 medium onion, chopped (optional--a delicate taste is desired)
Place all ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Skim off any cloudy solids with a slotted spoon, and reduce heat to gentle simmer for 40 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through a fine sieve. At this point, the liquid should taste about as salty as seawater. Fish poached in unsalted or too little salted water will be very tasteless and bland. Don't worry about the salt--most of it stays behind in the liquid. Poaching liquid may be used immediately, or cooled and stored in the refrigerator up to two days. Longer storage requires freezing.
About 30 minutes prior to service, place the salmon (filets or steaks, with skin or not) in one layer in a lightly oiled roasting pan, close to the length of the fish pieces as you have.
Bring the strained poaching liquid to a boil in a separate sauce pan, and carefully pour over the fish pieces. If the fish pieces are large, or very cold, set the pan over a stove burner on LOW. Water should not be moving--maybe a bubble now and then, but no more. Cover with aluminum foil and poach 15 minutes. Test by separating a piece with two forks--should be just opaque in the middle, but not dry. Poach longer if necessary. Yes, fish can dry out in the liquid if overdone. Remove (using a couple of large spatulas) from cooking water onto a warm platter lined with paper towels. Cover with the foil and keep warm until ready to plate.
Sorrel or Spinach Sauce
While salmon is poaching melt 1/2 stick butter (per two servings) in a heavy saucepan.
Add 3-4 finely minced shallots to the butter and cook until soft (about 5-8 minutes)
Add 1/2 cup white vermouth or dry white wine. Bring to a boil and reduce for 1-2 minutes.
Add 1 Tablespoon strained fish poaching liquid (optional). Remember: this is VERY salty. A little goes a long way, but it adds great flavor.
Add several large handfuls fresh stemmed sorrel or fresh spinach. Cover and wilt the greens. Add more if desired. If leaves are very large, chop coarsely. Note: if you must used frozen spinach, heat it thoroughly beforehand and and squeeze it dry before adding to butter and shallots. Start with 2 boxes frozen (it seems to disappear).
Mix gently with a fork and keep warm until salmon is finished.
Assembly for Service
Plate for service at the last minute--use well warmed plates.
First, remove salmon skin if filets have skin. Turn pieces over with skin up, and peel off.
Second, divide the spinach or sorrel sauce between the service plates and spoon on with a ladle or cooking spoon.
Third, center an appropriate sized piece of fish on top of the sauce.
Fourth, garnish with a wedge of lemon, and a dusting of ground black pepper or finely minced parsley if desired.
Fifth, enjoy your accolades!
Serve with tiny peeled boiled potatoes if you want a starch on the plate. They are delicious coated with some of the butter and shallot sauce.
Remember to strain the used stock into a freezer container and freeze indefinitely. Next time you want to use it, thaw, add at least another cup of white wine and possible salt (taste it). Repeat straining process and adding wine with each use. If frozen, poaching liquid lasts for months.
Next time: SOUPER BOWL CHOWDERS
KGC
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