JAPANESE STOCK BASES & DASHI

A trip to Japan in November 2008 was a consciousness raising journey. We joined a group from the Santa Barbara Museum of Art, which has an excellent travel program, and enjoyed 2 weeks in a new culture of gorgeous gardens and unforgettable food experiences. Of course there was lots of ART, but that's for another day. If you are interested in more photos of Japan please go to http://picasaweb.google.com/bothgreens/

A primary difference between our western European style stocks and Japanese stock is the length of time needed to make one. Stocks using beef, pork, lamb, chicken, fish and shellfish are widely used in Asia, and require the same longer cooking as western traditional stocks. Japanese "dashi" is something new for me because it is so quick. We use it frequently in our menus to support various noodles or dumplings (raviolis) mixed with a few vegetables for fast meals. As always, salt and spicy seasonings may be added or not. It's fantastic!

For a variety of use options please check out the New York Times Web site, October 15, 2008, and read "The Secret's Out as Japanese Stock Gains Fans," by Harris Salat. You'll run right to your supermarket for ingredients. Incidentally, my local supermarket carries packages of dried kelp (spelled konbu or kombu) so it's out there. The bonito flakes not available here (yet) so I buy them when traveling or online. A package keeps a year or so unopened. Strict vegetarians won't use bonito anyway. Instant (powdered) dashi exists, but it is so EASY to make and so much better, don't bother with it.

Dashi is the foundation for miso soup, which commonly includes tofu, miso pastes and scallions.
There are a thousand combinations. I am a noodle lover, so cooked noodles of any sort go in my dashi with a few scallions, mushrooms, and minced fresh parsley. Add pieces of leftover meat, chicken or fish to round out a meal. In a future post, we will make some dumplings and ravioli with supermarket purchased wrappers to add as well. The Japanese believe that less is more, as you can see in the photos--they do not put "everything" into the soup. At least not all at once!

Let me know your results. We'll share.

BASIC DASHI or Japanese sea vegetable (kelp) stock

2 ounces kombu (see photo of package)
2 quarts cold water

Place dried kelp in bottom of a stock pot
Add 2 quarts cold water
Let soak for a few minutes until kelp is soft

Simmer gently for about 20 minutes until the water is nice and green. Do not boil.

Lift out kelp and add 2 ounces of bonito flakes (one package as pictured).
Now bring to a full boil, stirring flakes to separate. After one minute at the boil, cover and remove from heat. Let stand up to 10 minutes off heat (no more). Strain through a folded paper towel or paper coffee filter. Save solids.

You may use the just strained bonito solids and the kelp you set aside for a second batch.
This time, cover the saved solids with 2 quarts cold water, gently simmer for up to 1 hour, and strain again. If a more intense flavor is desired, reduce this second cooking by half (after straining boil it down). Use within 2 days or freeze in portions for future use.

Vegetarian Dashi
Use kelp and cold water as above. Bring to a boil, cover and remove from heat immediately. Let stand covered 12 hours or overnight. Remove kelp and you have your stock ready to use.

SAVE the kelp from either technique. It can be sliced up into bite sized pieces, seasoned with soy sauce, rice wine, or sesame oil (experiment here) and eaten with leftovers on rice.

Experiment....

Photo notes: Packages of ingredients, including "nori" which is used to wrap sushi

Temple, fall colors, and lunch tray taken at Tenryu-ji Buddhist ashram in Kyoto where a strictly vegetarian menu is served.

Noodles in Japanese broth as one of many courses at a Kaiseki dinner at Benesse House museum/hotel on Naoshima Island.

Noodle slurper and bowl of udon noodle soup taken at an ancient courtyard restaurant near Takamatsu. Lunch included lessons in slurping. Udon noodles served hot, and soba noodles served cold. Shikoku Island grows more wheat than rice (drier climate), hence its fame with the udon (wheat) noodle. Soba is a buckwheat noodle.

KGC